Fashion illustration has rediscovered its importance and now is a fundamental part of the fashion design training programs of the best international fashion schools and academies. In this short interview, 4 talented young fashion design students speak about their art, the relationship with drawing techniques and their hopes for the future.
At the beginning of the era of fashion magazines, the illustrations were the only way to present garments and accessories with a detailed accurancy and a delicate aethetic taste, inspiring the buying desire. Passing time, and especially in the early XX century, the illustrations became even more important, giving a decisive artistic contribution to the publications, but the introduction of fashion photography almost completely eclipsed this fantastic form of art, by letting it know ups and downs.
Fortunately in the last years the desire for something original and different brings back the fashion illustration to the attention of editors and consequently, of fashion schools. After years passed sketching in a very accurate and almost technical way, now the students are pushed by teachers to unleash their creativity and imagination. They can experiment all the artistic techniques, both manual and digital, exploring new creative and expressive languages. Fashion sketch now is a visual story that tells not only about shapes, colors and details of the garment, but about feelings and emotions.
Today I choose 4 young fashion design students, coming from international schools, for presenting their works and asking some questions about their relationship with illustration:
- Agnese Lazzerini, born in 1996, studied at the School of Fashion IED Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome, has a passion for photography and in her free time she likes to visit museums, read a book or go to the cinema, but, most of all, she prefers to draw rather than do anything else.
- Anne Francesca Welp, born in 1994, is studying Fashion Design (Bachelor) at the University of Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland, following her childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. Her attention is focused on re-use of materials in the design process and in her illustrations.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
- Daniele Giampietro, born in 1992, started his path in fashion as self-taught designer since he was 16-years-old, working as freelance for many fashion houses. Then he decided to improve his technical and artistic skills attending the Accademia della Moda in Naples, studying and working at the same time.
- Michael Treta, born in 1993, is an Italian designer who moved from the central Italy to Scotland to study Art and Design and then HND Fashion Manufacture at the Edinburgh College of Art, becoming specialized in womenswear and accessories design.
HOW MUCH IMPORTANT IS THE TRAINING PATH YOU DID AT YOUR FASHION SCHOOL?
Agnese: For me the years
at university were fundamental. In three years of fashion design at IED, I
learned a lot and most about me, I had the chance to grow personally as well as
professionally. They have been very intense years, full of work and I dedicated
myself to everything I did.
at university were fundamental. In three years of fashion design at IED, I
learned a lot and most about me, I had the chance to grow personally as well as
professionally. They have been very intense years, full of work and I dedicated
myself to everything I did.
Anne: The drawing classes at my fashion
school helped me a lot to improve my skills, because of all the different
teachers with their own specialised techniques and view of fashion. Another
really great plus factor of my school is the freedom to experiment and find
your own way in the fashion world. Also, the connection between the students in
classes is very important, because we learn al lot from each other.
school helped me a lot to improve my skills, because of all the different
teachers with their own specialised techniques and view of fashion. Another
really great plus factor of my school is the freedom to experiment and find
your own way in the fashion world. Also, the connection between the students in
classes is very important, because we learn al lot from each other.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
Daniele: For me the path was and still is fundamental. I was able to look beyond the drawing on paper. I learned fundamental notions that gave me the possibility of being able to bring my idea forward in the various stages of production, from the paper pattern to packaging, passing through marketing strategies etc. From a personal and human point of view, it has given me a great help in growing both humaly and professionally, teaching me to believe in myself, in what I do and not to be intimidated by this immense fashion world.
Fashion illustration by Daniele Giampietro, from Accademia della Moda in Naples |
Michael: I have been studying fashion for the past 5 years, in college first and
university after. In this journey, I had the chance to learn lots of useful
skills and how to express my ideas and creativity in a more efficient and
professional way. In my particular case, I found really helpful to learn the
technical aspect of the garment construction before to move into designing. I
do believe that it is vital for a good designer to know all the ins and outs
before to be able to modify and reinvent a garment. Innovation, for me, it is
the ability to know how to reinvent something in unusual ways.
university after. In this journey, I had the chance to learn lots of useful
skills and how to express my ideas and creativity in a more efficient and
professional way. In my particular case, I found really helpful to learn the
technical aspect of the garment construction before to move into designing. I
do believe that it is vital for a good designer to know all the ins and outs
before to be able to modify and reinvent a garment. Innovation, for me, it is
the ability to know how to reinvent something in unusual ways.
WHAT KIND OF DRAWING TECHNIQUES YOU LEARNED?
Agnese: I learned
various illustration techniques from the simple use of a pencil or pen to a felt-tip,
brush and from paper to digital, using water colors or with air-brush. I like
experiment continuously and work on different levels bringing out my sign.
various illustration techniques from the simple use of a pencil or pen to a felt-tip,
brush and from paper to digital, using water colors or with air-brush. I like
experiment continuously and work on different levels bringing out my sign.
Anne: In the beginning we started
with drawing the basic postures in order to get to know proportions, try to
capture the material right. Then to open the mind we had to welcome the
coincidence, due to different techniques like ripping little forms or colours
out of magazines and glue them on paper. Or to draw with your non good hand and
unusual pencils like sticks, straws, stones basically everything lying around. Another
one is focusing on the dessins of a fashion show and try to reproduce the
dessin without drawing. A technique I loved and hated at the same time was
painting on a plastic sheet and printing it on paper. All these free
techniques, helped me to open my mind towards the fact that there are more ways
to illustrate.
with drawing the basic postures in order to get to know proportions, try to
capture the material right. Then to open the mind we had to welcome the
coincidence, due to different techniques like ripping little forms or colours
out of magazines and glue them on paper. Or to draw with your non good hand and
unusual pencils like sticks, straws, stones basically everything lying around. Another
one is focusing on the dessins of a fashion show and try to reproduce the
dessin without drawing. A technique I loved and hated at the same time was
painting on a plastic sheet and printing it on paper. All these free
techniques, helped me to open my mind towards the fact that there are more ways
to illustrate.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
Daniele: I’m basically a self-taught boy, I thought I had to come to the Academy with a solid foundation in the drawing, but I was totally wrong about that. In the Academy I had the opportunity to perfect and refine my drawing techniques, whether they are manual or graphic. For example the learning of technical drawing gave me the possibility to discover that if we combine imagination with knowledge we can get anywhere always getting excellent results.
Michael: In our life
drawing classes, we experimented different ways to draw multiple body shapes
(thanks to the wide range of models available around) and we have always been
encouraged to think out the box in terms of materials used and the type of
papers. This initial experimentation allowed me to find the technique perfect
for my style and to find a mean to express at the highest potential my ideas
and creativity.
drawing classes, we experimented different ways to draw multiple body shapes
(thanks to the wide range of models available around) and we have always been
encouraged to think out the box in terms of materials used and the type of
papers. This initial experimentation allowed me to find the technique perfect
for my style and to find a mean to express at the highest potential my ideas
and creativity.
WHO ARE THE FASHION DESIGNERS, ILLUSTRATORS AND ARTISTS WHO MOSTLY INSPIRE YOUR CREATIONS?
Agnese: I draw
inspiration from everything is around me but I must say that as a lover of art
history I’m very attracted by pop art and contemporary artists and I also like
extravagance, strange and unusual things. I’m also fascinated by the art of the
impressionists, german expressionists and by abstract art and art nouveau. I
like free expression and interpretation. Who express oneself or want to express
a concept is an artist, the means used to convey the message personalizes the
artist. Everything that surrounds me inspire me and now with social media you
can discover much more talents and learn from them.
inspiration from everything is around me but I must say that as a lover of art
history I’m very attracted by pop art and contemporary artists and I also like
extravagance, strange and unusual things. I’m also fascinated by the art of the
impressionists, german expressionists and by abstract art and art nouveau. I
like free expression and interpretation. Who express oneself or want to express
a concept is an artist, the means used to convey the message personalizes the
artist. Everything that surrounds me inspire me and now with social media you
can discover much more talents and learn from them.
Anne: Alexander McQueen is one of my favourites, because of
his amazing sensitiveness for textile and composition. I really like the use of
colours of Martin Maison Margiela and the playful way how Bas Kosters creates
his own world. The thoughts of Sander Wassink, who encourages us to reconsider
our ideas on beauty, aesthetic value and status. The way how Piet Mondrian and
Van Gogh see the world and express it in their own drawing techniques. Furthermore,
I really like a lot of work made by different artist, designers or illustrators.
Often it is just one artwork that inspires me most.
his amazing sensitiveness for textile and composition. I really like the use of
colours of Martin Maison Margiela and the playful way how Bas Kosters creates
his own world. The thoughts of Sander Wassink, who encourages us to reconsider
our ideas on beauty, aesthetic value and status. The way how Piet Mondrian and
Van Gogh see the world and express it in their own drawing techniques. Furthermore,
I really like a lot of work made by different artist, designers or illustrators.
Often it is just one artwork that inspires me most.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
Daniele: Among the fashion designers from whom I draw my inspiration there are Anthony Vaccarello, before at Versace and now creative director of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, now head designer of Celine, Olivier Rusteing, artistic director of Balmain, and finally John Galliano. In the field of accessories, there’s Ernesto Esposito, a footwear designer but not only, internaltionally renowned and coming from Campania as me. Among the illustrators there’s Manuela Brambatti, who is the only one able to arouse emotions in me through all her works. I’m inspired also by music artists like Annie Lennox, Grace Jones, Bjork and Madonna.
Michael: I have
always been fascinated by classical art, form the Greek sculptures to the
romans, and the reinterpretation of the classicism during the renaissance, with
artists like Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Botticelli and so on. in general, I have
always admired classical beauty and its multiple declinations. That is why I
look up at couture a lot, in terms of aesthetic. For me, couture is like
classic art: it leaves you to stare for hours, without words, it takes your
eyes on a journey thought the intricate details and techniques, the rich
textures and so on.
always been fascinated by classical art, form the Greek sculptures to the
romans, and the reinterpretation of the classicism during the renaissance, with
artists like Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Botticelli and so on. in general, I have
always admired classical beauty and its multiple declinations. That is why I
look up at couture a lot, in terms of aesthetic. For me, couture is like
classic art: it leaves you to stare for hours, without words, it takes your
eyes on a journey thought the intricate details and techniques, the rich
textures and so on.
My aesthetic though
it is not just a passive replica of couture. Couture is mixed to empowerment
and hyper femininity on the same path of designers like Balmain, Saint Laurent
and Versace. In my work, I try always to reinvent tradition, to add some
contemporaneity into it and to create a bridge between past and present. For me
it is vital to know the past to build and shape the future.
FOR YOU ILLUSTRATION IS…
Agnese: It’s something really personal, is express ourselves and show your idea. I have always preferred to say who I am with my designs and through my
passions. What I do and how I do it describes who I am and I like the idea that
everyone can have his interpretation of it. One of the reasons why I draw is
because I can express much more through my sign than with a single word. I have
a sunny personality and the colors are certainly part of me.
passions. What I do and how I do it describes who I am and I like the idea that
everyone can have his interpretation of it. One of the reasons why I draw is
because I can express much more through my sign than with a single word. I have
a sunny personality and the colors are certainly part of me.
Anne: It’s a way to express a mood and atmosphere of an outfit or
collection, without using every detail. It gives an impression of context and
emotions which can stimulate the viewer to reflect on the message.
collection, without using every detail. It gives an impression of context and
emotions which can stimulate the viewer to reflect on the message.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
Daniele: I want to compare the fashion illustration to a key…That can give you the chance to get rid of the cuffs of real life. It’s a way to dream, to liberate ourselves and to feel who we really are.
Fashion illustration by Daniele Giampietro, from Accademia della Moda in Naples |
Michael: A way to
bring ideas to life and express your creativity. A fashion illustration has to
be clear, powerful and communicative. A fashion illustration has to speak
without you speaking and it has to connect with the viewer on an emotional
level.
bring ideas to life and express your creativity. A fashion illustration has to
be clear, powerful and communicative. A fashion illustration has to speak
without you speaking and it has to connect with the viewer on an emotional
level.
WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE?
Agnese: I’m looking to further my skills as a fashion designer and as an
illustrator. I will certainly draw constantly and I will do of my passion my
job, making art. I believe that we never stop learning so I think it will be a
continuous climb, where I want to do all the necessary experieces to then be
able to express completely myself.
illustrator. I will certainly draw constantly and I will do of my passion my
job, making art. I believe that we never stop learning so I think it will be a
continuous climb, where I want to do all the necessary experieces to then be
able to express completely myself.
Anne: My plans right now are to get my bachelor and after
that I thought about doing a master study, maybe fashion strategy. Beside my
study I still want to improve my drawing skills. Still, I am struggling a bit with
what kind of designer I want to be, but I am in the second year, so I still
have time to discover. In the future I see myself as a kind of freelancer,
doing different design jobs with different challenges. Also, I would really
like to help young students becoming a designer.
that I thought about doing a master study, maybe fashion strategy. Beside my
study I still want to improve my drawing skills. Still, I am struggling a bit with
what kind of designer I want to be, but I am in the second year, so I still
have time to discover. In the future I see myself as a kind of freelancer,
doing different design jobs with different challenges. Also, I would really
like to help young students becoming a designer.
Fashion illustration by Anne Francesca Welp, from the University of the Arts in Utrecht, The Netherland |
Daniele: My plans for the future are to achieve all the goals I set, creating something of my own, coming to the top of fashion world, without forgetting humility and gratitude to those who gave me the opportunity to do all this.
Fashion illustration by Daniele Giampietro, from Accademia della Moda in Naples |
Michael: I am currently working as a sales associate for Gucci, which is already
a good opportunity for me, and I am finishing my graduate collection that I
will be showing in the Edinburgh College of Art Fashion show and in London, at
Graduate Fashion week, on the 3rd of June. These are two crucial
moments because lots of industry people will be attending so it is important
for me to impress them. I would like to move to Paris and work my way up in one
of these big fashion Houses that I have always admired and ultimately end up at
the head of a brand of create my own.
a good opportunity for me, and I am finishing my graduate collection that I
will be showing in the Edinburgh College of Art Fashion show and in London, at
Graduate Fashion week, on the 3rd of June. These are two crucial
moments because lots of industry people will be attending so it is important
for me to impress them. I would like to move to Paris and work my way up in one
of these big fashion Houses that I have always admired and ultimately end up at
the head of a brand of create my own.
What do you think about these new talents of fashion illustration? If you want to discover more about fashion schools and young designers, continue reading The Fashion Propellant or contact us for advices and consulting.