TREND REPORT, the best avant-garde and innovative trends from latest fashion weeks (part 1)

Fashion weeks have just concluded and now it’s time to see what will be the most cutting-edge fashion trends for the next spring/summer 2018.

The spotlights on the most popular fashion runways are turned off, models and photographers are coming back to their home, while fashion designers start again their work to project another seasonal collection.

Everything seems to stand still? No way, this is the moment for us editors to look again all the collections and try to understand what will be the most important future trends for next spring/summer. Not so easy, actually. Because in the last few years fashion trends are becoming even more floating and uncertain, because in many magazines and articles we’ve read that trends are disappearing in favor of a major creative freedom and self interpretation of the designer’s proposals, because this society is liquid and difficult to understand.

Maybe all this can be the honest truth, but anyway this season we are looking to a return of the same or similar elements in many fashion shows, not only in the most classics that usually follow a trend, but also in the runways of the most cutting-edge designers, who are normally considered outsiders and far from any kind of stereotypes or rules. It might be considered still in this way?

However, is beautiful to find a litlle bit of order after years of chaos. So, let’s start to take a look to the future of avant-garde fashion with our trend reports (in 3 episodes) directly from New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week.

Light fabrics in silk or nylon colored with pastel or cool colors, a lot of drapes hold by drawstrings, stitchings or tapes, flowing shapes and airy silhouettes inflated as parachutes for the outfits perfect for the daywear or, why not, for a cocktail in the creations by AALTO, ANREALAGE, ID at FASHION GUERRILLA show, ANGEL CHEN and PASKAL

The pride of being part of a clan or better a urban tribe. This season one of the most seen trend is the great return of tartan checks also for the warm season, applied in many colors and patterns on different fabrics. Extra light at ANREALAGE, with mixed textures at THOM BROWNE, matched with chiffon by SACAI, refined at LUCIO VANOTTI, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and JOURDEN, while is in simple cotton flannel for GIPSY SPORT, AALTO, BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, DUMITRASCU, PUBLIC SCHOOL, R13, MARQUES ALMEIDA and NATASHA ZINKO

Sleeves are probably the most transformed and important parts of next summer clothing. Big and voluminous, the leg of mutton sleeves are coming back from the Nineteenth century and become the absolutely protagonists of the outfits, often matched with more simple shapes as by AALTO, PASKAL, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BROGNANO and ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, while ANREALAGE chooses a real complicate sihlouette more emphasized by the sleeves.

Shine, shine, shine. This is one of the keywords of the latest fashion weeks. Surfaces bright as metals and not only the classic gold (at THE BLONDS and UJOH) or the most appreciated silver (seen in the runways of LISELORE FROWIJN, LUTZ HUELLE, JOURDEN, HERON PRESTON, R13, GRINKO, LA PARGAY at FASHION SHENZEN, SHRIMPS, FILLES A’ PAPA, SADIE WILLIAMS and FYODOR GOLAN), but also bronze and copper (MARQUESA ALMEIDA) and all the colors from pastels to red or acid green (by ANGEL CHEN, DAIZY SHELY, MARC JACOBS and the magnificent GARETH PUGH), multicolor and like a candy plastic wrapper at RICHARD QUINN. All fabrics are good to be metallized, from leather, to lurex, organdy or shiny textures completely embroidered with sequins.

Long life to excess and decorations! Especially if in form of frills, ruffles and flouences that are practically everywhere and decorate any kind of surface, both for daywear and evening. The smallest are by Y-PROJECT, with solar colors at TSUMORI CHISATO, CYNTHIA and XIAO at FASHION GUERRILLA show and CHIRSTOPHER KANE, for the day at MOON YOUNG HEE and MARQUES ALMEIDA, in an interesting male version by GIPSY SPORT, simple but incredibly sophisticated for ALBINO TEODORO, TONI MATICEVSKI and DELPOZO, shiny and metallized for PROJECT RUNWAY, totally crazy for PAM HOGG, technological and innovative for NOIR KEI NINOMIYA and with a wonderful dramatic affect in the fashion shows of COMME DES GARçONS, ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, ANDREAS KRONTHALER for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and A.F. VANDEVORST.

Is this a sense of nostalgia or the desire of a return to the security and sweetness of a warm and comfortable past, when our grandmothers loved to decorate their houses with hundreds of doilies and laces or perpetuated the tradition teaching us the ancient weaving techniques? Whatever it is, thanks also to the diy trend so popular in the last few years, we are rediscovering the simple beauty of crochet and the use of the loom for a handcrafted touch to the collections of ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, CYNTHIA & XIAO at FASHION GUERRILLA show, GIPSY SPORT, NEHERA, TSUMORI CHISATO, CALVIN LUO, V-FILES and MATTY BOVAN.

Petals will bloom everywhere next spring. We’ll have plenty to choose from many types and effects. Three-dimensional as beautiful bouquets for PASKAL, ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, JOURDEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, THE BLONDS and NAMILIA, tapestry look for MAISON MARGELA and LUTZ HUELLE, inspiration Seventies for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BY ANDREAS KRONTHALER, TSUMORI CHISATO, JUNYA WATANABE, VAQUERA, MARC JACOBS, CLAUDIA LI and RICHARD QUINN (who mixes different floral textures for an incredible all-over effect). For ANTONIO MARRAS, BROGNANO, BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, COMME DES GARçONS and UNDERCOVER the inspiration is coming from Rococò style and Reinassance paintings, while flowers become wide and really romantic in the creations of DELPOZO, CHALAYAN and OFF-WHITE, small bouquets in the fashion shows of MASHA MA and NIHL (young talent coming from Parsons School of Fashion), for who flowers become the excuse for extraordinary handmade embroideries tha just cover the male nudity in a sexy and extravagant body. Pop version instead in the colored prints of NATASHA ZINKO, DAMIR DOMA and A.F. VANDEVORST